Saturday, May 12, 2012

Komodo National Park - Dragons and Diving

Since young, I have always been fascinated with the Komodo dragon, Varanus komodoensis. I read articles about them in Zoo-Ed during primary school, visited them at the Singapore zoo, and always thought it would be amazing to see them in their natual habitat - much like how people went to Africa to see the lions and elephants.

The Komodo dragon is only found on a few islands in the Flores region of Indonesia, east of Bali. Their population is now considered vulnerable, and the dragons are a protected species by Indonesia law. Only recently did I find out that the Komodo National Park was an extremely popular area for diving, and access to this "remote" part of Indonesia was not as difficult as initially thought, with tourist facilities (basic accomodation, tour and dive centres) operating for more than a decade.

The big dilemma about going to Komodo was the diving. I had just completed my Open Water Diving course the previous November, and I read that Komodo had some of the best diving in the world, matched with some of the strongest down currents. Some dive operators I approached in Singapore, most internet resources, and all my friends discouraged me from diving in the waters of Komodo, as they were meant for experienced divers with at least 50 dives (I had just seven). It would have been a great pity to make the journey there and not experience the diving, and yet again, the dangers were true, where divers had been known to have been swept away by the currents, never again to be found. I decided that I would purchase my underwater camera, then speak with the dive operators there for an "expert opinion", and if they said no, I'd have to be contented with snorkelling.


I made my way to Komodo National Park in late April 2012. I gave myself 6 days to get myself there and back in one piece, to see the Komodo dragons and perhaps get some diving and snorkelling. Took a (Jetstar;3hrs) flight from Singapore to Bali, then a domestic filght (Lion Air/Sky Aviation;1.5hrs) to Labuan Bajo, a harbour town on the western edge of Flores.

Labuan Bajo is a small town with the bare necessities for tourists - a main street lined with not more than 10 bars (with wi-fi) and restaurants, a few simple hotels,and another 10 or so dive and tour operators to get them to see the dragons. I took the first afternoon to settle in a USD20 a night bamboo hut, booked my Komodo dragon safari tour, and spoke with a dive operator about diving in Komodo's infamous waters, and by evening I had the remaining days planned out - I was to go on a 2 day 1 night Komodo dragon tour with the following itinerary (very standard package almost all tour operators carry - approximately IDR 600,000 if you bargain well):

- depart Labuan Bajo by boat to Pulau Rinca for hiking/looking for Komodo dragons
- snorkelling at Pink Beach (Pantai Merah)
- sunset whilst awaiting thousands of flying foxes to depart their cave (did'nt happen that evening though, much to my disappointment)
- sleeping on the deck of the boat in a sheltered bay
- Hiking/looking for dragons on Pulau Komodo
- snorkelling with manta rays
- snorkelling at Angel Island (Pulau Bidadari)
- return to Labuan Bajo by evening

The remaining two days (yes, just two) in Labuan Bajo were to be spent diving and relaxing.

Joey, the dive instructor at Divine Diving, told me that they assessed tidal current conditions before every dive, and with a dive master to personally guide me (at an additional IDR 200,000 per day), that diving in Komodo's waters would be a relatively safe and amazing experience. And amazing it was, as the pictures will show...

Despite not having seen the flying foxes leaving their caves in the evening, and not seeing any manta rays at the Manta Point divesite, it was still a most fantastic trip. I had seen the majestic Komodo dragons in their natural habitat/kingdom, survived the strong currents, saw some amazing marine life, had my first attempts at underwater photography, and met some really interesting people, local and fellow tourists - Julian and Imogen - father-daughter team on a round the world trip; and Marie the French-Canadian - great company each evening over dinners and beers.


Komodo National Park
The peaceful harbour town of Labuan Bajo

The living conditions of the locals - simple and not the most environmentally conscious as yet
The locals were friendly and never bothered tourists



That's the closest I got to a Komodo dragon - Pulau Komodo



Eagle ray!
Diving at Siaba Kecil

Diving at Castle Rock